FREELANDER 2 Common Faults

Freelander 2 – Whining Noise From Rear

A fairly common fault on pre 2011 Freelander 2 models you will hear a whine, hum or droning noise coming from the rear of the car. It is particularly noticeable when driving at a constant higher speed, but can start from 20mph. Land Rover are aware of this common fault and issued a technical bulletin detailing a repair procedure. The cause is that the pinion bearing was over tightened at manufacture and wears prematurely. Although it is a common fault be careful when diagnosing as a worn wheel bearing can make a very similar noise and you need to be sure you are replacing the correct part as it is an expensive repair.
Replace Rear Differential (Recon Unit with Heavy Duty Bearings) – inc. VAT
Replace Rear Wheel Bearing (OEM) – inc. VAT

Freelander 2 – Rear Differential Haldex Pump

The Haldex pump sits in between the propshaft and the rear differential and applies the torque to the diff when pulling away or during slow speed manoeuvring. When faulty it can make a low humming noise but the most tell tale sign is the traction control light is illuminated and a ‘Traction Reduced’ warning message in the panel.
To Replace Haldex Motor (OEM) – From inc. VAT (depending on model)

Freelander 2 – Steering Faults

If you can hear a whine when you are steering then there are three common causes, the first to check is the reservoir, there is a gauze at the bottom which can get blocked and cause a lack of oil to the pump. Secondly if as well as the whine (which is worse on full lock) the steering is starting to feel heavier especially at low speed or when parking that can be a sign that the steering pump is on its way out. Worst case scenario is that the steering rack needs replacing, most commonly found on pre 2008 Freelander 2s where during the manufacture of the steering rack the weld was not flushed out properly and swarf contaminates the system preventing the oil from flowing properly. The vehicle will steer without problems under normal driving conditions but when you slow to pull into a parking space for example the steering will become really heavy and very difficult to turn.
Replace Reservoir, Flush System and New Fluid (Genine LR) – inc. VAT
Replace Power Steering Pump and Fluid (OEM) – inc. VAT
Replace Power Steering Rack (Genuine LR) – 5 inc. VAT

Freelander 2 – Front Wheel Bearing

A grinding or droning noise that gets louder the faster you travel or when turning often indicates a dry wheel bearing. It can be difficult to tell which one is at fault as the noise can travel round the car, when driving listen for the noise to get louder when cornering, if it is louder when turning left then more weight is on the right front wheel so that one is faulty and vice versa turning right. To check properly, jack up the wheel and feel for play by rocking the wheel from top to bottom. If this is the case then the complete hub needs to be replaced. If the noise does not alter when turning and there doesn’t seem to be any play when rocking the wheel then you can be looking at worn driveshafts, front differential or transfer box.
To Replace Front Wheel Bearing and Hub (OEM) – inc. VAT

Freelander 2 – Loss of Power

If you are experiencing a loss of power it can becaused by a number of issues, most will require the vehicle plugging into diagnostic equipment to find the exact cause however the most common faults are EGR valves or a split in one of the intercooler hoses. If there is a split then it means that the air boost pressure is lost so the air and fuel mixture is incorrect leading to poor performance and generally black smoke from the exhaust. Most instances will put the car into restricted performance mode but not always. To investigate for a split hose inspect the large two hoses that run from to the bottom of the intercooler to the engine, look for evidence of oil on the outside of the hose or a split will show if you squeeze it.
To Replace Intercooler Hose (Genuine LR) – inc. VAT

Freelander 2 Faulty Fuel Gauge

We are coming across this issue quite frequently on the Freelander 2. If you have noticed that your fuel gauge is reading incorrectly then this can be caused by a faulty fuel sender unit (there are 2 in each tank) or a faulty ECU. However, we have found that often it is just an issue with the connectors that attach the wiring loom to the fuel sender unit that corrode giving intermittent signals and fortunately these can be replaced. It is a common fault with a number of Land Rover models. Be careful if you are thinking that you can live with a wrong reading on the dash because if the ECU thinks the tank is empty it will stop the engine to prevent any damage and not start again and you can guarantee it will do it at the most inconvenient time and location.
Repair Wiring Connections to In Tank Fuel Pump (Genuine LR) – inc. VAT
Replace Single Fuel Pump Sender Unit (Genuine LR) – inc VAT
Replace Both Fuel Pump Sender Units (Genuine LR) – inc VAT

Freelander 2 – Ignition Key Dock

If you can pull the key out of its dock whilst the engine is running or it won’t eject it when you push it in, then the dock requires replacing. It may operate fine for a while without the eject function working but at some point the ECU will decide it is a security risk and you will be unable to start the engine.
To Replace Ignition Key Dock (Genuine LR) –  inc. VAT

Freelander 2 – Door Lock Replacement

The door latches are prone to failing, you may find that you cannot lock the vehicle or have activated the central locking but you are still able to open one of the doors. As all the parts of the mechanism are now in one sealed unit the complete latch will need replacing.
To Replace Door Latch Mechanism (Genuine LR) – inc. VAT

All prices include parts, fitting and VAT.
*Parts prices may vary depending on vehicle specification and availability*